19th Century Venice

A recent book by John Julius Norwich, Paradise of Cities: Venice in the 19th Century, inspired this tour. The book chronicles many of the great icons of the century and their connection with Venice. Byron, Henry James, Whistler, John Singer Sargent, Ruskin, Robert Browning all lived in or visited Venice often. You’ll learn about the books they wrote and the art they produced. See the palazzos where they lived, sip an espresso at the cafes where they hung out, walk in their footsteps.

VISIT THE SITES where your favorite authors lived and wrote.
Readings ... discussions ... lectures.

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Literary Venice in the 19th Century

April 5 - 12, 2010

Experience Venice in the 19th century through the eyes and writings of authors (Byron, Browning, Henry James, John Ruskin), and an artist (John Singer Sargent). All were inspired and seduced by Venice. The luminous writings and Sargent’s glorious paintings of Venice will lead you to discover a Venice you’ve never known.

Day 1
Arrive in Venice. Transfer on your own to our 3-star hotel conveniently located just 5 minutes from St. Mark’s and a stone’s throw from the vaporetto (water bus transportation).

The Grand Canal

Late afternoon: Private motor launch ride down the Grand Canal. James calls this view of the Grand Canal “The Promenade Historique.”

As we sip a glass of prosecco, we pass a vast array of historic palazzos including Palazzo Barbaro, Ca’ Rezzonico, Ca’ D’Oro, Palazzo Giustinian, and many others. Each of these palazzos has its own fascinating story of life, love and intrigue. We’ll pause at the Salute Church and read Henry James’ observations from its steps.

We will make a brief stop at Jeremy's weekly salon where an interesting and ever-changing group of ex-pats meet for tea and talk. Jeremy lends out books at videos from his impressive collection, at no charge. He has just moved to what I understand is an elegant apartment on Campo Maurizio, very close to our hotel.

Early group dinner.

Gondolas On The Grand Canal

Day 2
Ruskin Day led by Howard Fitzpatrick, an art historian with a graduate degree in English Literature.

John Ruskin (d.1900), who was born in England, was a prolific and important art and architecture critic who was passionate about Venice. His famous book on Venice, The Stones of Venice (3 volumes), concentrates on Venice’s history, art and architecture. He loved the Gothic but was less enthusiastic about the Renaissance. He is generally credited with bringing the world’s attention to the decay and losses of art and architecture in Venice. For many people, when they think of Ruskin they think of Venice and vice-versa.

We’ll see the Doge’s Palace which Ruskin described as “the work of art in Venice”. The palace is filled with huge paintings, especially those of Tintoretto and Veronese. You will get a sense of the splendor and wealth of Venice. The Doges Palace and San Marco, which we also visit, are the top two sights in Venice.

Lunch at Pensione Calcina where Ruskin lived briefly. Then to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, a monumental building with 63 Tintoretto paintings. This Ruskin favorite is one of our favorite places in Venice.

Palazzo Barbaro

Day 3
We’ll have coffee at Howard’s lovely Dorsoduro apartment while he talks about John Singer Sargent: his life, painting style, influences and paintings he did in Venice. We will visit locations of his paintings outside the Frari church.

Day 4
Optional Day to do as you wish. Visit museums, shop, or just wander aimlessly (the best way to enjoy Venice). You can’t get very lost. There are signs everywhere that point your way to the Rialto or St. Mark’s.

Day 5
Gregory Dowling, who teaches American literature at Venice University, will regale us with Byron stories and readings from Childe Harold and Don Juan. He will also touch on Robert Browning and his days in Venice after his wife, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, died in Florence. Ca’ Rezzonico on the Grand Canal was the scene of Browning’s death.

Dowling’s article on Byron states, “There are several good reasons for talking about Byron in Venice, one is that he has become one of the many legends of the city ... there is much talk of his notoriously debauched life here, his hundreds of women, his palazzo on the Grand Canal complete with monkeys, dogs and foxes and his incredible swimming feats.”

Visit to the Armenian Monastery where Byron made a desultory attempt at studying the Armenian language. The monastery is a fascinating place with a magnificent library.

Ruskin Lived and Wrote Here

Day 6
Henry James Day, with particular emphasis on Wings of the Dove and Aspern Papers. James loved Venice and this novel and short story are engrossing stories set in Venice.

Afternoon visit to San Michele Cemetery, a beautiful spot, where Ezra Pound and other luminaries are buried.

A stroll on the eastern end of Venice will take us to San Francesco della Vigna, off the beaten track and visited by few tourists. The church boasts two paintings by Veronese and a Madonna and Saints by Bellini.

Day 7
One of our most popular events of our last tour was our visit to the atelier of Venice’s best bookbinder, Palo D’Olbi. We will have a private tour and viewing of many of his most extraordinary leather volumes executed with craftsmen of other skills (Murano glass, enamel, paintings).

Optional tour to Murano: visit the glass museum and some of the best glass showrooms with museum-quality work.

Day 8
Depart for home.

Optional Activities
A Vivaldi concert; Thursday night Jazz and free buffet at Centrale; Monday night lecture at the Circolo, a mostly English expat organization that has Monday evening lectures on a variety of topics.

Itinerary subject to minor revisions.

About Gregory Dowling
Gregory Dowling was born and educated in Bristol, England. He later studied at Oxford where he graduated with honors. He now teaches American literature at the University of Venice.

In addition to his academic work with its special emphasis on poetry, Gregory is the author of countless articles. He is a frequent speaker at international conferences and has an impressive list of translations. We are intrigued that he is the author of four mystery books with one of them set in Venice. As if this wasn’t enough to commend Gregory to us, he also wrote the sightseeing chapters and Literary Venice section of the Time Out Guide to Venice (2003).

Read What Our April/May, 2005 Clients Had To Say About This Tour ...

It was a wonderful week and you are a very good companion. Your love of Venice and sense of adventure really come through. Enjoyed our behind-the-scenes exploration of literary and artistic sites.

— Peg from New York

SWT Tour of Venice is a wondrous adventure. Gregory Dowling’s lectures sparkle. Don’t miss the experience.

— Jane from New York

Cost
$3,150 USD includes 7 nights hotel (no single supplement), 7 buffet breakfasts, 4 group dinners, most activities, 2-3 day vaporetto passes. The price does not include airfare, airport transfers, lunches, coffee stops, wine or alcoholic beverages, personal expenses. If the dollar decreases further in value, there may be a minor price adjustment.

	Maximum number of participants: 15
	Minimum number of participants: 10